Photinia: how to grow and care for photinia trees & hedges

Max
Max
Max
Max

I have always been fascinated by plants and their diversity in nature. Therefore, after my apprenticeship as a carpenter, I began studying horticultural science. At home, I grow a variety of plants in my garden, in the forest and in the house; from small houseplants to large forest trees - with a special interest in fruit trees. After the harvest, I also like to process the fruits into jams, wine and various other products.

Favorite fruit: Apple
Favourite vegetable: Bell pepper

Photinias are used in many gardens in our country – and for good reason. Their often shiny red leaves and attractive flowers and fruits offer a high ornamental value.

Photinia bush
The red colouring makes a beautiful accent in the garden [Photo: Konstantinos Livadas/ Shutterstock.com]

The common name for plants of the genus Photinia is photinia, although there are many different photinia species within this genus. We present the most important information about the plant genus.

Photinia: origin and characteristics

Photinias originate from large parts of Asia. These are shrubs and trees, some of which reach a height of more than 10 m. Its name is derived from the Greek word “photeinos”, which means “shiny”. Botanically, all species of photinia belong to the rose family (Rosaceae) and the subfamily of the pome fruit family (Spiraeoideae). This makes them related to the apple tree (Malus domestica) or the pear tree (Pyrus communis), for example. Depending on the species, photinias can have a very different appearance, for example, there are evergreen and deciduous specimens. The leaves are mostly elongated and pointed. Photinias display bee-friendly, white to pale pink flowers from May to June. Later they develop into small, roundish and red fruits that provide a good source of food for birds.

White photinia flower
Photinia flowers are not only beautiful but they are very attractive to insects too [Photo: Konstantinos Livadas/ Shutterstock.com]

Planting photinia

When planting woody plants such as photinias, a few things should be considered. For example, there are differences in terms of location – like planting outdoors or in a pot.

The right location

Almost all photinias prefer a sunny to off-sun location with well-drained, nutrient-rich soil and a neutral pH. In general, however, they are quite adaptable when it comes to the substrate.

Planting photinia: procedure

The best time for planting photinia is in the spring. Specimens that are well rooted by winter suffer less from shallow frozen soil and the consequent limited water supply. The planting hole should be about twice the size of the root ball of the plant, which is best loosened up a little to ensure good growth. It is also beneficial to mix the soil you have dug out in equal parts with some fresh potting soil or compost to offer the plant nutrients for a good start. It should be noted that the woody plant should not be planted deeper into the soil than it was previously in the pot in which it was purchased. In the case of baled or bare-root plants, only the root area should be buried in the soil. The substrate should then be pressed down well and watered.

Potted photinia
Photinia can often be purchased in containers [Photo: Yuriy Meleshko/ Shutterstock.com]

Photinia can also be potted in a tub, but it is important to ensure that excess water can run off at the bottom and that there is sufficient drainage. For this purpose, coarse, mineral substrate such as gravel or expanded clay should be placed in the lower part of the pot, above which the actual planting substrate is then placed. In addition, the container must be adapted to the size of the corresponding photinia species and should be at least 40 cm high and wide. Especially in pots, a good planting substrate is very important, as the root space is limited here. Our Plantura Organic Flower Compost, for example, is suitable for this purpose. It keeps the soil permeable and airy with the addition of crushed expanded clay.

Suitable planting neighbours

Plants that also prefer a sunny to semi-shady location are suitable as neighbours for photinias. For example, perennials such as lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), aster species, daylily (Hemerocallis- species) or purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) are suitable.

Caring for photinia

To ensure success when caring for photinia, three factors are of central importance: pruning watering, and fertilising. Old, diseased and superfluous branches should be removed annually in spring to keep the tree airy and thus prevent fungal diseases. Regularly pruning photinia is also essential to maintain the desired shape. Sufficient water is especially important in the hot summer months. During long periods of drought it may often be necessary to water photinia several times a week. Short dry phases, on the other hand, can certainly be survived. The following applies to nutrient supply: If the woody plants stand on poor soils, an occasional fertilisation of photinia is almost essential. For this purpose, organic slow-release fertilisers such as our Plantura All Purpose Plant Food are suitable, which release nutrients gradually. Fertiliser should, however, only be applied during the growing season from spring to autumn. For plants in pots, on the other hand, it is more advisable to use a liquid fertiliser such as our Plantura Liquid Flower Food, which is easy to apply to the plant pot due to its simple watering application.

Photinia hedge
Photinia can also be used as a hedge [Photo: LFO62/ Shutterstock.com]

Photinia -diseases and common pests

As pome fruit plants, photinias are also susceptible to the bacterial pathogen of fire blight (Erwinia amylovora). Some species such as the Chinese photinia (Photinia davidiana) are even considered main host plants. When infested, leaves begin to wilt, curl and appear burnt. Since fire blight is considered a quarantine pathogen, infected plants must be reported to the responsible plant protection office and destroyed. Other common pests for photinia are aphids (Aphidoidea). Especially in early summer, their populations can increase and spread abruptly. The little animals are often a consequence of too much fertilisation. Luckily, they can be easily controlled by simply wiping them off with soapy water.

Is photinia hardy?

The hardiness of photinia depends on the species. For example, the red tip photinia (Photinia fraseri) is frost-resistant to about -23 °C and thus somewhat more susceptible than the oriental photinia (Photinia villosa), which tolerates temperatures down to -26 °C without any problems. Photinia serratifolia, on the other hand, resists temperatures down to -15 °C and is often not sufficiently hardy.

Snow covered photinia
Snow and frost are no match for many species of photinia [Photo: caseyjadew/ Shutterstock.com]

Propagation

Photinias can easily be propagated by cuttings. To do this, cut off half-woody shoots about 15 cm long in July to August and remove the lower foliage so that only the top two to three leaves remain. Then remove some of the outermost bark layer in the lower quarter so that the cambium is revealed. This is the green layer of tissue found under the bark and bast of a woody plant. Two thirds of the cutting should then be placed in a suitable substrate, such as our Plantura Organic Herb & Seeding Compost, which was specially developed for plant cuttings. The substrate must then be kept constantly moist until rooting. Small indoor greenhouses are also suitable, as the humidity can also be kept high in these. In the following spring, enough roots should have formed to be able to plant the cuttings in a more nutrient-rich substrate. It is easy to see whether the plant has already formed roots when new leaves appear on the shoot.

Red leaves of photinia
The best way to propagate photinia is via cuttings [Photo: okazaki hayato/ Shutterstock.com]

Is photinia poisonous?

Photinias are considered slightly poisonous and should therefore not be consumed by humans or animals. However, to get noticeable symptoms of poisoning such as nausea or stomach cramps, very large quantities of the plant would have to be ingested.

Other plants with red leaves can be used to complement the foliage of photinia and complete the overall picture in the garden. We present some possibilities in the corresponding article.