Sago palm: growing & caring for Cycas revoluta
Sago palms, also known as King Sago Palm Tree or Japanese Sago Palm, are wonderful, easy-to-grow plants that date back to the time of the dinosaurs.
The sago palm is a wonderful addition to a sunny room or office. Its fern-like leaves and unique trunk give any space an exotic feel. Read on to find out the best ways to grow, care for and propagate sago palms.
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Sago palm: origin and characteristics
Sago palms (Cycas revoluta) are also called king sago palm trees, cycad palms, or, being native to Japan, Japanese sago palms. These plants are members of an ancient group of plants known as cycads, which can be traced back to the time of the dinosaurs. Despite their name, sago palms are actually not palms at all. They are palm-like gymnosperms with reproductive features of conifers and foliage similar to palms and ferns. Sago palms have long, leathery, pinnately-compound leaves that grow in whorls, directly off the centre trunk. They are diecious plants, meaning they can be either male or female, and do not flower. Instead, they produce cones. Sago palms can reproduce vegetatively through offsets or sexually through nuts produced in the cones of female plants.
Growing sago palms
Sago palms are incredibly slow-growing, ultimately reaching a height of 1 to 2m over 30 to 50 years. Because of their slow-growing nature, they make great houseplants, but can also be grown outside in warmer climates with winter protection. Sago palms need well-drained soil and plenty of bright indirect sunlight. A good soil mixture to start with is a peat-free compost like our Plantura Organic All Purpose Compost mixed in a 2:1 ratio with perlite. Our compost provides sufficient nutrients for foliage and root development, while the perlite improves drainage to save your sago palm from waterlogging.
- Perfect for all your house, garden & balcony plants
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Sago palms do best in a bright room with a south or west facing window. Outdoors, they need dappled sunlight, as exposure to intense direct sunlight can burn and damage their leaves. Native to subtropical climates, sago palms thrive in temperatures ranging from 10 to 24 °C. Colder temperatures will slow their growth and leaf damage can occur if temperatures get below 0 °C. However, when planted in the ground, a well-established mature specimen can survive a light frost outdoors, but may obtain damage. Therefore, covering with horticultural fleece or a blanket for frost protection is recommended.
Tip: sago palms can have a flaky looking, thin wax layer on their leaves. Do not remove it, as the wax layer actually helps to conserve water in dry air.
Cycas revoluta care
The main thing to note in Cycas revoluta care is not to overwater. Sago palms are highly susceptible to root damage and rot caused by various fungal species such as those in the Phytophthora genus. Overwatering and poorly draining soils encourage fungal growth. Allow your sago palm to dry out a little between waterings. To check if it needs watering, stick your finger into the soil; if the surface is dry, but the soil is moist 2 to 3cm down, your plant needs a drink. Sago palms also like humidity. In the winter months when our radiators dry out the air, let your plant sit in a tray full of gravel. Keep the tray filled with water, but do not let the water touch the bottom of the pots, as this can lead to waterlogging and root rot. If your sago palm is in a sunny and bright room, occasionally mist it with clean water. Fertilise monthly from late spring to early autumn. Our Plantura Liquid Houseplant Food is a good choice for feeding sago palms. It contains microorganisms and vital nutrients which help keep plant root systems and foliage healthy and strong.
- Perfect for a wide variety of houseplants & foliage plants
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Sago palms are slow growers that do not require repotting frequently. That said, it is a good idea to replace your sago palm’s soil every two to five years. This gets rid of any mineral build up in the old soil and allows you to check for signs of root rot. Replenish the soil with fresh, well-draining soil and repot into the same container if the plant is not rootbound. Unglazed terracotta pots are best as they allow moisture to evaporate through their walls and will help prevent waterlogging.
Sago palms do not require frequent pruning either. As the leaves age, they will yellow and eventually die and turn brown. Do not prune off the yellow leaves. Even though they do not look attractive, yellow leaves continue to produce and export nutrients for the rest of the plant. Wait until they are fully brown and then prune them off close to the trunk.
Sago palm leaves turning yellow:
It is common for sago palm leaves to turn yellow and then brown as the leaves age. The lower whorl of leaves at the bottom of the foliage is the oldest. While it is important to let your plant dry a little between watering, if it sits dry for too long, the leaves will turn yellow and the tips will curl and turn brown.
However, yellowing of other leaves closer to the crown indicates a problem. If you overwater frequently, or let the soil get waterlogged, the plants may suffer from fungal root rot. Signs of root rot include yellowing leaves and dark spots on the trunk, which will eventually get spongy and soft. If this occurs, you may be able to save the plant by treating the soil with systemic fungicides. Alternatively, remove the soil and spray the roots with a fungicide directly. Afterwards, repot into fresh, clean, well-draining soil.
Manganese deficiencies can also cause yellow leaves. Complete fertilisers can keep your plants well fed and prevent deficiencies. Yellowing leaves can also indicate a pest infestation such as spider mites, scale, or mealybugs. Monitor your plants closely and take measures to contain and control pest levels before they become an issue. Unfortunately, yellow leaves from any of these symptoms will not turn green again. Your sago palm should put out new growth once the reasons for the symptoms are dealt with.
Sago plant propagation
Sago palms can be propagated by seed or vegetatively through division. Sago palms produce offshoots that grow out from the base of the trunk. By removing these, you increase airflow to the base of the trunk and reduce crowding and competition for resources. You can then use these offshoots to grow new plants. Propagation through seed requires a little more patience.
To propagate by seed, wear gloves and follow these steps:
- Procure viable seeds from a reputable source.
- With a sharp knife, make a 1 – 2mm shallow incision in the seed coat. Soften the seed coats and hydrate the seeds by soaking them in water for 1 – 2 days.
- Use well-draining potting soil mixed 1:1:1 with perlite and sand.
- Remove the husks. Place 2 – 3 seeds per pot, deep enough in the soil so that two thirds of each seed is sticking out.
- Tent with a clear plastic bag or cloche to keep humidity high.
- Keep in a warm, bright location. Keep temperatures around 18 °C, using a seed mat heater if you have one. Keep the soil moist.
- Be patient! Roots will form first, then the first leaf. This could take 6 – 9 months to develop, so do not be hasty and think your project is unsuccessful.
- Remove the plastic cover once the first leaf has formed and transplant each seedling into individual small, terracotta pots.
- Treat new plants with normal sago palm care, especially avoiding direct intense sunlight.
To propagate by offshoots, wear gloves and follow these steps:
- Offshoots will grow their own roots. For best propagation results, wait until their roots are developed and growing into the soil.
- Sterilise your tools and container with alcohol or a 10% bleach solution prior to use to reduce the chance of any fungal contamination. You will need a trowel, a knife, or scissors, and a pot just a little bigger than the offshoot’s diameter.
- Use well-draining potting soil mixed 1:1:1 with extra perlite and some sand.
- Remove your sago palm from its pot, loosen and remove the soil from the area between the offshoot and your main sago palm trunk.
- Depending on the size of the offshoot, you may be able to gently break the offshoot from the main trunk with your hands. If not, use a knife and cut the offshoot from the main trunk as close to the main trunk as possible.
- Use the scissors to cut any roots that are entangled between the offshoot and your main sago palm. This will help avoid any excessive damage to either root system by tugging or too much handling.
- Place the offshoot(s) on a tray in a bright spot out of direct sunlight for a day or so to let the wound callus over. Callus tissue is the plant’s way of protecting the damaged tissue from infection. You may need to mist the offshoot’s roots occasionally during this time.
- After resting the offshoots for one to two days, plant them in their pots with loose, well-draining soil up to their trunks.
- Care for the new plants as you would your other sago palm. Do not overwater them, and allow them to dry out between watering. Roots should be fully developed within a few months.
Are sago palms poisonous?
All parts of Cycas revoluta are poisonous. Keep children and pets from consuming any parts of this plant. It is important to note that Cycas revoluta share their common name, sago palm, with another cycad species, Metroxylon sagu. The latter is commonly used in a highly processed form as a dietary starch.
Want to try another wonderful house plant known for its foliage? Discover how to grow, care for, and propagate the diverse and beautiful species of the Peperomia genus in our in-depth article.
