Edelweiss: origin, varieties & growing your own

Whilst edelweiss typically grows in the mountains, it is possible to grow it in garden beds too. Find out all about this unique alpine plant and about growing edelweiss in your own garden.

Edelweiss (Leontopodium nivale) is a very symbolic plant for Germany and Austria. It adorns the coat of arms of the German and Austrian Alpine Club and can be found on several coins. Even a beer brand is named after it. The name can be broken down into two German words: edel, meaning ‘noble’, and weiss, meaning ‘white’. To this day, this plant is considered very special and rare. However, thanks to the effort of plant breeders, it is now possible to grow edelweiss in your own garden. Read on to find out all about growing edelweiss and what you need to consider when it comes to plant care.

Edelweiss: origin, flowering time and properties

Edelweiss is a member of the daisy family that originated in Asia, specifically in Mongolia, Tibet and the Himalayas. Around 100,000 years ago, this perennial came to Europe, where it is now found mainly in mountainous regions at altitudes of 1,500 to 3,500m. The species Leontopodium alpinum, for example, can be found in the Alps and the Pyrenees. Edelweiss grows on barren, stony subsoils as well as in nutrient-poor meadows.

Edelweiss usually grows 10 to 20cm tall. It has an unbranched stem along which fuzzy leaves grow in clumps, forming small, low cushions. Many admire the white blossoms of the edelweiss, but these are in fact specialised leaves known as bracts.

Only upon closer inspection can you see the yellow flowers within these bracts. They sit together in 2 to 12 flower heads, each of which may contain up to 500 flowers. Edelweiss blooms between June and September and is hardy to at least -23° C.

Did you know that the UV radiation at higher altitudes is not only harmful to humans, but affects plants as well? The white felt of edelweiss bracts is evidence that this plant has adapted to such high altitudes. Thanks to edelweiss’s dense hairs, it renders almost all UV radiation harmless to the plant. Light with wavelengths suitable for photosynthesis, on the other hand, still manages to reach the surface of the leaves, meaning the plant can continue to produce energy. What’s more, these felt-like hairs also reflect a lot of light, which in turn attracts pollinators. Pollinators are also attracted by a ‘sweaty’ odour, making edelweiss a bee-friendly flower. Unfortunately, bees aren’t the only ones interested in this plant — humans picking unsustainable amounts of them meant this alpine flower was almost completely eradicated across parts of the Alps. However, thanks to a variety of protective measures, the population is slowly recovering.

Another peculiarity is the different colouration of edelweiss depending on where it grows. Whilst edelweiss found at lower altitudes grows larger, the bracts will be less white and hairy, giving these plants a rather grey-green appearance.

Edelweiss species and varieties

Before you plant edelweiss in your garden, you need to choose a species and a variety. If you want a native plant, opt for a variety of alpine edelweiss. There are also some delightful varieties hailing from its place of origin, Asia.

• Alpine edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) is aspecies native to European mountains. Alpine edelweiss grows about 20cm high and forms small cushions about 20cm in diameter.

• Alpine edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum ‘Matterhorn’) grows very compact and branched, yet size and space requirements are about the same as the rest of the species.
• Alpine edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum ‘Mont Blanc’) is a particularly early-flowering variety of edelweiss known for its large flowers. It also grows to about 20cm tall and forms cushion-like clumps about 20cm across.

• Alpine edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum ‘Blossom of Snow’) is a striking variety of edelweiss with up to 30 flowers per plant. In addition, ‘Blossom of Snow’ is more expansive than other edelweiss species and cultivars mentioned here, reaching up to 40cm taller and 40cm across.
• Chinese dwarf edelweiss (Leontopodium souliei) grows lower than alpine and forms turf-like cushions that are densely covered with flowers in summer. Among others, it includes the varieties ‘Alpine White’, which grows up to 20cm tall, and ‘Mignon’, which grows to a maximum height of 10cm.

Planting edelweiss

If you want to plant edelweiss in the garden, choosing the right location is essential. These plants need a spot in the sun in limey, well-drained soil that is not too dry. The soil should also have a low humus and nutrient content. Edelweiss also likes to be in stony areas, meaning it feels at home in rockeries. You can buy both seeds and seedlings in many nurseries.

How to sow edelweiss seeds:

1. Start seed indoors in trays or pots starting in March.
2. Edelweiss seeds need cold temperatures in order to germinate. Purchased seeds are usually already stratified. However, if you want to play it safe, put the seeds in a bag or container filled with damp sand and leave them in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks.
3. Prepare your container by filling it with a moist, low-nutrient soil, such as our Plantura Organic Herb & Seedling Compost, and about 20% sand.
4. Spread the edelweiss seeds on top of the soil and press them down gently. Do not cover them with soil, as edelweiss seeds need light to germinate.
5. The seeds will take about 15 to 20 days to germinate when kept at 15 to 18 °C. Keep the seeds consistently moist during this time. A mini-greenhouse or foil placed over the growing container will prevent things from drying out too quickly.
6. After 6 to 8 weeks, you can move the seedlings into beds or individual pots filled with nutrient-poor soil. Before this, you will need to acclimatise your edelweiss seedlings first. To do this, put the seedlings outside for a few hours each day for 2 weeks. Edelweiss seedlings need to be transplanted early, as those left in their growing containers for too long often fall victim to fungal diseases.

Growing edelweiss in the garden

Whether you grow them yourself or buy them from a shop, there are several things to consider when planting edelweiss in the garden:

Timing

Purchased edelweiss plants can be planted out in the spring or autumn. If you have grown the plants yourself, they will be ready to plant outside in late spring or autumn, depending on when you sow the seeds.

The right location

Since it is hard to find somewhere that is naturally well-suited to edelweiss in the UK, it is usually necessary to give it a helping hand. Rock gardens are ideal spots to plant edelweiss, provided you can offer them a sunny spot. Planting edelweiss in normal garden soil is also possible, but we recommend mixing in lawn sand at a 1:1 ratio for better drainage. Good water drainage and constant moisture are fundamental for edelweiss to thrive. Improve soils that are prone to waterlogging with a layer of gravel or chippings at a depth of 30cm.

Tip: snails do not like edelweiss and only eat it when they cannot find anything else. So, generally speaking, edelweiss is a snail-resistant plant.

Edelweiss planting distance

For most edelweiss species and varieties mentioned in this article, a planting distance of about 20cm will suffice. This adds up to about 25 plants per m². However, Chinese dwarf varieties need a planting distance of at least 25cm, and the ‘Blossom of Snow’ variety needs as much as 40cm. Plant edelweiss individually or in small clusters of 3 to 5 plants for an appealing aesthetic.

After planting

Water the young plants well after planting them out. Protect your edelweiss from winter frosts by covering it with brushwood, especially in the first winter.

Edelweiss in pots

Edelweiss can also be planted in a pot. This often works better than directly in a garden bed, since you have greater control of the conditions.

1. Opt for a planter with drainage holes and a diameter of at least 20cm. One made of a natural material such as clay is best, as these allow water to evaporate more easily.
2. Fill the bottom of the container with a drainage layer of gravel, expanded clay or grit at least 10cm high.
3. As a substrate, we recommend our Plantura Organic All Purpose Compost mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:1. It also helps to add some coarse stones and lime.
4. Plant your edelweiss in the soil and water it until the water runs out of the pot.
5. Place the pot in a sunny spot on a balcony, patio or in the garden. Edelweiss is not suitable as a houseplant.

Edelweiss care

In ideal conditions, edelweiss requires little to no additional care. Although Leontopodium alpinum appreciates a constant water supply, it tolerates short dry periods better than waterlogging. Therefore, be cautious when watering edelweiss, but do not neglect the plant completely.

Edelweiss grows best in nutrient-poor soils. So, fertilising edelweiss or giving it compost can harm it.

Pruning edelweiss is also not necessary, but you can always remove anything that is dried up or dead. If you like to keep your garden looking prim and proper and want to prevent your edelweiss from self-seeding, you can cut back any withered stems just above the leaf rosette in autumn. Conversely, if you want to harvest seeds, leave the flower heads on the plant over the winter and then remove at the end of winter.

Edelweiss prefers calcareous soils, so work a little lime into the soil every 2 to 3 years. However, measuring the soil pH beforehand is important, as too much lime can also be harmful. In sandy, loamy soils, apply approximately 180 to 240g of lime per m² every 3 years.

Is edelweiss hardy?

Leontopodium alpinum is hardy down to -23 to -28 °C. Be that as it may, edelweiss does not tolerate moisture in winter and its roots can begin to rot, thus it is essential to provide effective drainage when planting. Edelweiss in pots needs protection from winter frosts, because the roots of potted plants are much more susceptible to damage from the cold. To do this, cover your potted edelweiss using jute bags or fleece for overwintering. You can also place it on an insulating layer of polystyrene or wooden board. Do not bring your edelweiss inside, as it is too dark and too warm indoors.

Edelweiss propagation

Edelweiss can be propagated from seed or, better yet, by division.

To propagate by seed, make sure you do not deadhead your edelweiss in autumn. Just leave the flowers on the plant until after temperatures have dropped, at which time you can harvest the seeds. Sow as described above in March.

Propagation by division works great for edelweiss. In spring or autumn, cut off a section that has at least two shoots and transplant it to its new location. Division has the further advantage of encouraging the mother plant to rejuvenate. However, only divide edelweiss plants every 3 to 4 years, depending on growth, to allow them enough time to develop plenty of new shoots and roots.

Preserving and using edelweiss

Edelweiss was used to treat abdominal pain, diarrhoea and other gastrointestinal issues as early as the 16th century. The curative effect has now also been proven by studies that attribute an antibacterial effect to certain ingredients of edelweiss — this fights against enterococci, coli bacteria or staphylococci, for example. Furthermore, extracts of edelweiss are said to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. In a study, a substance extracted from edelweiss root was also found to be effective against vascular wall thickening — so it can be used to treat vascular wall diseases.

Only use flowers from your own garden or garden centre for harvesting and preserving edelweiss, as specimens found in nature are protected. Edelweiss flowers are usually fully developed in July and can be harvested from then until September. To do this, simply cut the flower stalks just above the rosette of leaves. To dry, the edelweiss flowers can be spread out on newspaper and placed in a warm but shaded, dry place. Check and turn the flowers every few days. Alternatively, tie the flowers together by the stems and hang up to dry. Once the leaves no longer feel soft and begin to crunch, they are ready. Dried edelweiss can be kept in dark storage boxes.

The blue-flowered gentian (Gentiana) is a well-suited companion plant for edelweiss.